Beneath African Skies

Africa Travel

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Road Block

The blond Hollander sitting in the driver’s seat next to me gripped the huge steering wheel of the 15 ton Mercedes tipper truck and stared down the road. We were stationary in the middle of the road, the trucks massive diesel engine grumbling beneath us as it idled. Down the road, some 300 meters away, was a road block. I glanced across at Tim, his eyes were fixed on the mixture of 44 gallon drums and weapons that signaled yet another tedious encounter with AK47 wielding thugs.


In Zaire, there were many ways to deal with a road block. You could submit to the agonizing interrogation and inevitable “infraction tres grave!”, handing over millions of Zaires in the form grubby bank notes to get your “Carte des Residance” back in one piece. Or, you could try other methods of circumventing the obstacles in the road. And Tim was intent on the later…

Man against beast

Man against beast

I sat uneasily in the passanger seat and looked quickly around for a seatbelt or anything else that would secure my place in the cabin of the monster truck. Tim was playing mind games with the soldiers who were manning the assortment of drums, gum poles and rocks that littered the road ahead, which served as the road block.

Staring ahead, he pressed his steel-capped boot hard on the accelerator, allowing the engine to roar to maximum revs. The long nose of the construction vehicle moved about 5 degrees clockwise as it strained to keep itself from leaping forward. We could see the green uniforms busying themselves behind the drums.


Generally speaking, road blocks in Zaire during the mid eighties were nothing more than a way to pay the unruly and undisciplined military. We had heard many a story of how soldiers at road blocks would choose the prettiest girl on a bus load of peasants on their way to market, hall her off into the bushes to be raped while the occupants waited patiently. Once the frightened, sobbing girl was back on bus they would be allowed to pass.

“Yor, yor” said the tanned Dutchman as he revved the engine again and looked mischievously down the road. He put the truck into 1st gear and let out the clutch. The truck had 6 gears and each gear that was engaged saw the Mercedes gaining momentum. The engine roared, punctuated only by the hiss of the air assisted clutch and the double clunk of the clutch peddle on the floor as Tim engaged the next gear.

It was now a game of chicken, the soldiers behind their barrels taking their weapons off safety, and a 15 ton behemoth bearing down on them, puny in comparison. Tim had now engaged 6th and there was no turning back. I could feel the sweat running down my neck as I looked anxiously through the windshield in front of me, praying that they would back down first. I could see their fake, “one way” Ray-ban sunglasses that protected their drug dilated pupils from the glare of the midday sun. I could almost smell the liquor on their breath. The boot on the accelerator pushed the last few centimeters to the floor..

And then it happened, the drums and poles were pulled aside and Tim hung on the air horn as the truck thundered passed the dismantled road block and the scattering soldiers.

“Great!” I said sarcastically, “We have got to come back this way!”

“Yor, yor” was all I got in reply.

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Victoria Falls

One of the most spectacular sights in the world, the Victoria Falls!


Situated between the countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe on the Zambezi River in Africa. The Victoria Falls has a width of 1708 meters and a height of 108 meters, turning this expanse of water into one of the world’s largest waterfalls. Visitors can walk along the whole width of the falls at a distance of 60m on the opposite side of the Zambezi Gorge. An average of 550 000 cubic meters of water plummets over the edge every minute, depending on the season, so the walk is on the wet side!

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls

In April at the peak of the rainy season, the spray from the falls can rise to a height of over 400m. The rain forest that grows in this spray includes ferns, palms and a number of trees, such as mahogany which, as a rule, are not indigenous to the region.
Locally referred to as Mosi-oa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders), the name Victoria Falls was given by famous explorer and missionary, David Livingstone.


Although the Victoria Falls constitute the main attraction for tourists to the area, not to be overlooked is the abundance of wildlife and natural beauty in the immediate area.

Wildlife and Towns Around Victoria Falls
The two national parks mentioned above contain a huge variety of wildlife which adds to the pleasure of a visit to this part of the world. This includes large populations of elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra and a variety of antelope species and also includes predators such as leopard and lions. Game viewing by boat along the Zambezi river or in open vehicles is popular above the falls.
The Victoria Falls National Park is open to visitors throughout the year and covers an area of 23.4 square kilometers from around 6km above the falls to about 12km below the falls. Victoria Falls Town in Zimbabwe lies at the eastern side of the Victoria Falls and has many excellent hotels and facilities. The Victoria Falls Airport is 18km south of the town.
The Mos-oa-tunya National Park in Zambia covers approximately 66 square kilometers. The town of Livingstone is a historic colonial city and tourism center for Victoria Falls and it lies approximately 10km to the south of the falls, along the Zambezi river.
Victoria Falls Activities
The ‘Flight of Angels’ is a Helicopter flight that allows visitors to see the vista of the falls from a different perspective and include sightings of the river upstream and the many islands to be found on the Zambezi river. Micro-lighting trips are available for the adventure traveler.
Other popular activities include white water rafting in the rapids below the Falls, kayaking and fishing options are also available. Horseback safaris and guided walking safaris are also popular.
For the extreme adventurer, bungee jumping from the Victoria Falls Bridge will provide the rush required for the adrenaline junkie, for those too faint-hearted to attempt this, just watching people throw themselves off one of the world’s highest bungee stations provides a great deal of ‘fear factor’ entertainment.
Visiting Victoria Falls is considered by many as one of the items on the ‘To Do and See Before One Dies’ list.
Credits – Original article taken with permission from Fleur Hupston (suite 101)

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From Mwene Ditu to Mbuji-Mayi – part three



We hadn’t heard English spoken for a good few days, we didn’t know where we were, and our only means of communication was a bible which we used as a makeshift dictionary. It worked fine, sort of, if the person you were trying to communicate with had one in his own language. Having said that, we got many a blank stare. You could almost see it on their faces, “Your name is Moses, and you are going where?” Oh, and there was the sand, great for drawing pictures in to explain who you were and where you were going. So, what we found when we got to the missionary home in Mbuji-Mayi saw us grateful, to say the least.

How would he get us to the airport on that?

How would he get us to the airport on that?

As we neared Mbuji-Mayi, we could see what looked like little factories perched on top of wide barge like boats floating on the river. It took us a while to figure out what they were. It suddenly dawned on us. “They are dredging the river – but why?” said Simon puzzled. “Dimonds! That’s what they are dredging for. Dimonds!” I yelled as Jean hooted his way past an old man creeping his way towards Mbuji-Mayi with a chicken under his arm.

It was at that moment that dread, fear and uncertainly started to filter back into our subconscious. It was something I had read while we were trying to plan our trip. “Simon, there is some region in Zaire, a diamond area, they don’t allow visitors into without a special pass. Are we maybe in that area?” I suggested, thinking back to how we were met on the station by the banker and his jeep, and how the soldiers at the gate had saluted and let us pass without the usual questions and bribe. Did we need some special pass to enter this area? If so, how were we going to explain ourselves if we get caught? These worrying thoughts started to overwhelm us.

The jeep started it precarious penetration of the town of Mbuji-Mayi. Jean seemed oblivious to the pedestrians on the road as he grappled the gears trying to remember the order in which he was to use them. Man and beast alike parted in front of us miraculously as the jeep followed the main road into town.

Road into Mbuji-Mayi

Road into Mbuji-Mayi

We could sense the ghosts of Zaire’s colonial past as we entered the town – the paint of 30 years ago still clung to the walls of the Belgian architecture in patches. The structures looked somewhat out of place, dressed up in the way of modern Africa. Old buildings competing for the pavement with little wooden stalls and vendors selling selling bush meat. Africa strangely unfamiliar to the two white South Africans in the jeep, the slim women with their brightly coloured clothes and hair braids, small thin men in sandals or on bicycle, the pulsing rhythm of north west and central African music. It certainly wasn’t the Africa we knew or expected to see. And we couldn’t understand a word!


We were starting to wonder if we were the only white people left on the planet as we pulled up to the missionary home, a well maintained colonial style house in what used to be a posh suburb. As we climbed out of the jeep, stretching our bruised limbs and trying to swallow what was left in our parched mouths, the door of the house opened and out came Jenny Bint.

“allo, want a cuppa tay?”.

The missionary home was like a welcome haven in a world of unfamiliar sounds and sights. It was occupied by a English couple and a Swedish couple. Sitting at the kitchen table, eating hamburgers with the missionaries was still a strange mix of cultures, but we could handle that, they spoke English, we could communicate at last! We poured out the events and concerns of the last couple of days.

Tord, the Swede, disappeared off on his moped to see about getting us to Kinshasa. He soon returned with news of a plane leaving that afternoon.
And were were off, perched precariously on the back of Godfrey’s Vespa and Tord’s moped, our rucksacks on our backs.
Yes, we were in the province of Kasai, and yes we did need a pass, we were told by Godfrey. “But don’t worry, this is Zaire” he reassured us, pushing his black rimmed glasses up on his nose, “let me do the talking.”.

Our first stop at the airport was a bare office on the first floor. A fat Official eating part of a chicken looked up from behind his empty desk as Godfrey knocked at his door. After an exchange of the customary greeting and an explanation of the problem, the man behind the desk stroked his throat. We found out later that this meant he was thirsty and that he needed some money to buy a few beers before he could accommodate us. Wiping his greasy hands down the front of his shirt he accepted Godfrey’s offering and stamped our passports.

We boarded the Air Zaire flight to Kinshasa along with a market of people and chickens. We heaved a sigh of relief as the over crowded Russian made plane left the tarmac and turned North West, anticipating the next part of our trip.

Photo of street by http://www.congovision.com

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Diving and Swimming with Dolphins

White, pristine beaches and coconut palms frame the coastline in Mozambique and vacations here combine water sports with a captivating Afro-Portuguese culture.


Mozambique’s surface area spans a distance of over 800 000 square kilometers and is bordered by Tanzania in the north, South Africa in the south, Malawi in the west and Zimbabwe in the south west.
Mozambique dive sites are famous the world over. Bazaruto and Benguerra islands near Vilanculos and the Quirembas Archipelago have coral reefs bursting with color and life and one can expect to swim alongside dolphins, whale sharks, the rare and shy dugong and huge manta rays.

Dive with dolphins in Mozambique

Dive with dolphins in Mozambique

Northern Mozambique Quirembas Archipelago
Pemba is the capital of Cabo Delgado, the northern province of Mozambique and is the gateway to these beautiful islands.
The Quirembas Archipelago consists of 32 coral islands most of which are undeveloped and include 11 islands which form the Quirimbas National Park. The reefs are rich and unspoiled and provide the diver with an abundant array of unusual marine life to look at such as lobsters, sea turtles and larger-than-usual reef fish.
Marine life on the Quilalea island is protected by the Quilalea Marine Sanctuary. Dive packages, yacht charters, island-hopping excursions and big game fishing make up some of the activities and diving is available for all levels from beginner to advanced. The region’s culture is a melting pot of Arabian, Portuguese and African influences with many an ancient trading post and church waiting to be explored.


Southern Mozambique Bazaruto Archipelago
This group of 5 islands make up the Bazaruto Archipelago and this area is a protected National Park. The islands are covered by large sand dunes, fresh-water lakes and bush-protected reserves. To keep environmental damage to a minimum, camping is not allowed but there are several private lodges which offer good accommodation. The area is superb for scuba diving vacations.
Outstanding scuba diving charters are available – to the legendary 2 mile reef, 5 mile reef and Pipe reef, where charters will specifically take one out to dive with whale sharks. There are other activities on offer such as deep sea fishing, snorkeling, and island excursions.
Swimming With Dolphins at Ponta D’Ouro
This bay is situated on the southern most point of Mozambique and is home to pods of Bottle-nose dolphins. There are several operators who organize trips to swim with the dolphins, for theraputic reasons or just for fun!
These trips facilitated by experts in the Dolphin Swim programs and they go the extra mile to protect the dolphins and avoid dolphin harassment. Children over 3 are usually welcome. Humpback whales migrate in the winter months and this provides another exciting dimension to a vacation in Mozambique.
Vacations in Mozambique – When to Go
May to August in the winter time in the southern hemisphere is the best time, temperatures are warm but not oppressively hot and humid as they are in the hottest months – December to March.
Credits – Original article take with permission from Fleur Hupston (suite 101)
Picture credit – Picture taken from merala

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From Mwene Ditu to Mbuji-Mayi – part two

As we neared Mbuji-Mayi we could see strange boat like contraptions on the river. “Aren’t they for dredging the river?” said Simon, nudging me in the ribs at the exact moment I was weightless, when the jeep left us suspended in mid air, and before being slammed back into the back seat as the next bump brought the jeep up to meet us. The pot holes had become progressively worse since Mwene Ditu to the point that we were no longer diving on the tar dodging the potholes, we were now driving in the pothole trying to avoid the tar.

“Looks like it” I replied, trying to land back in the jeep and not on top of the bicycle piled high with bags of charcoal we were overtaking. “But dredging for what?” And then it dawned on me!


Watch out for Jean's jeep!

Watch out for Jean's jeep!

The trip from Mwene Ditu had been eventful to say the least. We had left after breakfast with Jean and his mechanic. We soon understood why the man with the vise grip and screw driver had come along. The jeep started jerking and shuddering about 20km out of town. The gears grated as Jean tried to negotiate a lower gear to keep us going. No such luck as we free wheeled to a stop in the middle of “god knows where”!

Soon the mechanic was digging under the bonnet of the dilapidated jeep, trying to find the problem. Jean sat grinning at us, obviously confident that the little man dismantling the engine was going to get us going again. Simon and I, on the other hand, were contemplating the fact that we might never see civilization again. We watched another piece of the tired engine drop onto the side of the road.

We had no idea where we were. Our South African education during the apartheid years taught us that there was nothing further north than Biet Bridge! Not only did, “where ever we were in Zaire”, not appear on any map we had with us, but we couldn’t even ask, since we couldn’t speak French, Swahili, Lingala or whatever. Our fate was in the hands of a mechanic with a vise grip and a screw driver!

After what seemed ages the mechanic appeared from beneath the jeep to raise a greasy thumb into the air as a signal for Jean to start the engine. With a confident, “I told you so” look, he cranked the jeep into life. Our mouths dropped open as the jeep sprang into life – at least the jeep was running, even though petrol was spurting about a metre into the air from behind the open bonnet.


The little man covered in oil and grease pulled his finger across his throat and then Jean killed the engine. The fountain of petrol slowly subsided to a trickle. Panic once again filled our hearts as we watched the mechanic, both hands on his head, stare into the oily bowels of the engine compartment. Everything had been put back, so why the lake of fuel under the vehicle?

The mechanic and Jean started looking for something on the road. We had no idea what they were looking for but we decided to help in the search anyway as it seemed that the illusive “what ever it was” held the key to us reaching civilizational. We spent the next half hour staring at the road surface, wondering what we were looking for. And then I spotted something, a small washer! “Is this what you are looking for?” I asked hopefully. The gleeful reaction of the mechanic confirmed that it was, and very soon we were off on our way.

It seemed that most of Zaire, human and otherwise, had decided to travel the same road that day. So apart from avoiding the pot holes, Jean had to avoid people, goats, chickens, dogs, children and anything that crept the road, or near vicinity or the road.

And that is where a horn comes in handy. Instead of swerving to avoid a child, Jean would simply drive straight at the startled toddler hooting and waving frantically until it’s mother snatched it out of harms way. It soon became apparent that Jean was hooting at any living thing that was within twenty metres of the road. He would hoot until we were well and truly passed the unfortunate creature, just in time to start hooting at the next victim.
This continued until we were within about ten kilometres of Mbuji-Mayi. And then, for some unknown reason Jean started bobbing down beneath the dash board of the jeep. Each time he disappeared the jeep would sway and swerve dangerously across the road.

“What IS he up to?” I wailed to Simon as the jeep headed to wards the ditch.
Simon was sitting behind the mechanic and had a better view of the drivers antics and peered around his shoulder into the front of the jeep.

Did the jeep ever make it home?

Did the jeep ever make it home?

Our fear turned to laughter as we realized what was happening. The horn button had started jumping off from the middle of the steering wheel because of the deterioration of the road. Jean would hoot frantically, hit a pothole, bob, muttering below the dashboard to retrieve the horn button, bounce up at the next rut with the thing triumphantly clutched in one hand, replace it, hoot, hit a rut and the whole process would start again. The more we laughed, the more irritated Jean became with the horn button, and, the more we laughed. By the time we reached Mbuji-Mayi tears of laughter had streaked our faces, and our sides ached.

Later, as we waved waved goodbye to a very grumpy Jean, we could see him gesticulating wildly to the mechanic and then to the horn button in the middle of the steering wheel. I wonder if the jeep ever made it home.

To be continued …..

Picture credits – African Child, Old jeep

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How to purify water

Traveling in Africa, there is a risk from drinking water as  it can be contaminated with bacteria, viruses, parasites, and other contaminants.



When planning an overland trip through any African country, think about your water needs. There are many approaches that can be taken to provide safe water for both drinking and sanitation.
Never take chances with the water supply, when visiting rural areas, bottled water should be taken along.
A traveler should not think that if the water is not ingested, he or she will be safe.  Brushing teeth or  rinsing out the mouth can be enough to cause severe diarrhea.  Fresh vegetables should be washed in potassium permanganate and perhaps soaked in a warm water with salt added.

Waterborne Hazards When Traveling through Africa

The hazards from drinking unclean water include contracting a viral, bacterial infection and/or the possibility of being infected by parasites.  Below are just a fraction of the types of waterborne diseases and infections lurking in unclean or stagnant water:

Parasites: Giardia, parasites that cause Bilharzia (snail fever), amoebas, guinea worms, dwarf tapeworms,

Bacterial infections: Diseases such as botulism, cholera, E.coli infection, Legionnaire’s disease and salmonella,

Viral infections such as gastroenteritis, hepatitis, respiratory infections that affect the kidneys, polio to name a few.


Water Purification Tablets

Water purification tablets typically contain silver ions combined with chlorine.  Usually one tablet will purify one liter of water. A tablet should be left in the water for at least 30 minutes to kill bacteria and viruses and 2 hours if there is a danger of Giardia.  These tablets are not expensive and ensures safe water consumption.

Travel Water Filter

A back packing water filter is ideal for hikers and campers.  A camping water filter is portable, small and can remove some types of infectious agents from drinking water.  A travel water filter comes in different forms:

Drip through ceramic filters made from stainless steel.  They look like a flasks and weighs about 1 kg. (2 lbs).  They work more or less the same as a Brita or Pur water filter, except they are much smaller.
Sports water bottle purifiers – They look just like normal water bottles for sportsmen, they are great for hiking backpacking, canoing or general  travel and the filter is said to last for approximately 2 months or 160 refills per filter.
Pump/Filter Combinations:  Pumps and pump/filter combinations usually use a technology such as Carbon blocks, ceramics, porous plastic elements or membranes to effectively remove protozoan cysts and bacteria.  This type of pump may be suitable only for a group of hikers or campers due to the bulkiness and the added weight of the pump, the water is pumped by hand.

Other Simple Ways to Purify Water:

Boiled water is one of the best methods for making water safe to drink. Boil continuously for at least one or two minutes.  Adding a small pinch of salt adds to the effectiveness and improves the taste.

Add a simple household bleach that does not have perfumes or additives.  Five drops of bleach is enough to purify 2 liters of water.  After adding the bleach, allow the water to stand for 30 minutes before storing or drinking.

Bottled water from a trusted source is a recommended as an alternative to tap water. Before drinking, be sure all bottled beverages have fully sealed caps. If seals are not intact, the bottles may have been refilled.   Also watch out for the sell-by date, as old bottled water is also not good to drink.
If a traveler has run out of water and there is no bottled water available,  a coke or beer with a sealed cap is a safer alternative than attempting to drink water from an unknown and possibly unsafe source.
Iodine – 5 drops per litre of water.

Potassium permanganate – Just add three or four crystals to one litre of water, leave for thirty minutes and drink.

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What to do in Lesotho

Pony Trekking and Mountain Climbing in the Mountains of Lesotho


The Basotho are a nation of horsemen and to this day use ponies as the preferred mode of transport in order to reach their remote and inaccessible-by-car villages. Pony treks can be organized to traverse the rugged mountains and range in time from 1 hour to 6 days.

Transport in Lesotho

Transport in Lesotho

Mountain climbing is for the experienced mountaineer and not to be experimented with by the amateur. Walking and hiking are a pleasure, there are no fences and access just about anywhere is not restricted. Even so, precautions are necessary. Taking an excellent map is recommended, the relevant 1:50 000 maps can be obtained in Maseru and the various lodges will have comprehensive maps of their immediate localities. Every eventuality should be prepared for in terms of weather conditions and a third party should be aware of the hikers’ destination and expected length of time away. Enough food should be carried for an extra day or two, just in case of unexpected delays.

Fishing and Skiing in the African Country of Lesotho
Lesotho provides the angler with fly fishing opportunities from end September to end May each year but it is advisable to check on weather conditions closer to the time as December, January and February coincide with the rainy season
The best time of the year is anywhere between May to August which is mid-winter in this part of the world. Not many people think of Africa as being a continent with skiing opportunities, but in winter months (May through September), fairly heavy snow-falls can be expected in Lesotho.
An abundance of additional adventure opportunities are available to the adventure tourist, such as hang-gliding and para-gliding. Visitors to Lesotho will leave reluctantly and will be sure to return to a country that has so much to offer.

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Lesotho – The Kingdom in the Sky

The Roof of Africa as Lesotho is known, has a lot to offer the adventure traveler, with activities such as 4×4 drives, pony treks, hiking, fishing and mountain climbing.



The Kingdom of Lesotho, a country landlocked within South Africa’s borders, covers an area of 30 355 square kilometers and is one of the smallest and coldest countries in Africa. Lesotho is entirely mountainous and offers excellent 4 x 4 adventure challenges amid a backdrop of breath-taking natural scenery. Traveling in a 4 x 4 over the Drakensberg Mountains (or Maluti mountains in the local Sotho language), each bend and turn reveals a panoramic vista in a country which has an average altitude of over 1000m above sea level.
Driving though the countryside one will find small villages with friendly and welcoming local Basotho people and mountain herdsmen who – wrapped in blankets and clad in Wellington boots – appear in and out of the mist like the mystical beings in a Tolkein novel.
Getting to Lesotho is easy. Road networks are good and the journey to Lesotho from South Africa’s Oliver Tambo Airport is a pleasant 4 hour journey. Many 4 x 4 trails will take a few days to complete and travelers can bush camp wherever they feel like it or at whichever summit takes their fancy. However, in all cases, it is best to find the village chief or headman in the village closest to where one decides to set up camp. A small sum will be expected (around L50 or $7) and he will ensure that the villagers stay away, enabling one to be ‘audience free’ when one sets up to camp/read/eat or watch the view!

Bush Camping on the side of the "road"

Bush Camping on the side of the "road"

It is recommended that anyone traveling in Lesotho should take an excellent map as well as a GPS, spare fuel, water and all food with as supplies can only be replenished at the towns along the way. The villages are small and the village inhabitants support themselves with subsistence and cattle farming and have very little else. Clothing should be brought for all weather conditions as even in mid-summer the mountain climate is changeable and weather can turn from warm sunshine to freezing sleet. In winter, snow and icy winds can be expected at any time.
Villages are typically thatched stone huts with thick walls, comprising of around 10 – 25 huts. The people are friendly; children and dogs will come rushing down the hills to greet travelers in the hopes of getting some candy or other goodies in return.
When going off the beaten track into the mountains, it is best to travel in a convoy of at least 2 vehicles. It is possible to chance it alone if the vehicle is very reliable but if something does go wrong, it is likely that another vehicle may not come past for days.
Traveling along a 4 x 4 track is not the only option. Most main roads are accessible with a normal sedan car. Even so, roads can be rough particularly after rainy weather so hiring a 4 x 4 is recommended.

Credit – taken with permission from an article by Fleur Hupston (suite 101)

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The Drakensberg Mountains

The Drakensberg is located in South Africa and forming a border with Lesotho, this mountain destination provides the traveller with game viewing, bird watching and hiking activties.



Settlers gave this beautiful range of mountains its name because legend has it dragons were seen flying over its cloudy peaks.
The Drakensberg Mountains in South Africa stretch over a distance of approximately 1000km with a 200km section in the Drakensberg National Park that has gained status as a World Heritage Site. This is in recognition of the outstanding, wild natural beauty, landscapes and abundant wildlife in this mountain paradise.
The names of its passes and peaks will entice you with passes named “Organ Pipes” and peaks named “Devil’s Tooth”, “Sentinel”, “Inner Tower” and “3 Witches”, aptly named when one considers their treachery and the unpredictable weather conditions which can turn from balmy sunshine to freezing hail or snow in a matter of hours. Snow is not uncommon even in mid-summer. The well-known and much-photographed “Amphitheatre”, which is situated in the Royal Natal National Park boasts 1000m sheer basalt cliffs and includes the Tugela Falls, the second highest waterfall on earth at 947m. The Central Drakensberg offers the best examples of Bushman rock paintings and has a vast number of hiking trails.

Village in the Drakensburg

Village in the Drakensburg

There are plenty of outdoor activities with something for everyone in this part of the world. some of these activities include Horse riding, fly fishing, golf, quad biking, rock climbing, helicopter and micro light flights.
In addition, arts and crafts stalls, wrought iron crafts, candle making factories, glass making factories, farm stalls, carpet weaving stores all make shopping for something different a pleasure. Local South Africans view the Drakensberg as a refuge from the stress and pollution of city life and many of them come simply to choose a quiet secluded spot, a good book and plenty of time to unwind.

Another attraction is the world famous Drakensberg Boys Choir which is worth visiting since they present recitals during their school term. The Choir represents the different races and cultures in South Africa and its choral music is a showcase of that diversity, which ranges from conventional singing to a unique African repertoire.
Credit: Taken with permission from an article by Fleur Hupston (suite 101)

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Welwitschia – the hardy desert plant

It’s not a desert flower known for its beauty or color, but the Welwitschia is one of earth’s fascinating treasures. If you want to see one you need to take a trip to Namibia.



Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitschia discovered the unusual desert plant in 1860. Hence the name.
Earlier than that, indigenous peoples used the core of the Welwitschia female plant as food – baking it in hot ashes or eating it raw. Welwitschia is referred to locally as ‘Tumboa’ or ‘N’Tumbo’ in Angola, ‘Onyanga’ by the Herero people (meaning ‘Onion of the Desert’) or Tweeblaarkanniedood in Afrikaans (meaning ‘Two Leaves that Cannot Die’).

welwitchia plant of Namibia

welwitchia plant of Namibia

Welwitschia Mirabilis comprises of only two leaves that continue to grow from a seedling throughout its life. These leaves are leathery, broad and lie along the ground. In time the two leaves become shredded and tattered by the wind, eventually making the plant look as if it has many frayed leaves. It is thought to be a species of desert flora that is a living relic from the Jurassic period
The Welwitschia absorbs moisture from the thick fog that flows over the Namib desert, a region with an annual rainfall of less than 25mm. These amazing plants depend on this fog for enough moisture to survive.


Welwitschias are able to live for hundreds of years, the estimated lifespan being 400 – 1500 years old, with some larger specimens thought to be 2000 years old.
Some of the best specimens are found in the ‘Welwitschia Flats’ in the desert of Namibia with one specimen rising 1.5m from the surface with a circumference at the base of over 8m, the age of which is said to be approximately 1500 years.
The plant in its natural environment is unique on earth. Naturally it grows only in South West Africa in the Namib Desert of Namibia and the Mossamedes desert in Southern Angola.

If you plan a trip to see this facinating plant, you can combine the trip with visiting some of the other interresting tourist destinations that Namibia has to offer. For example, the unique Fish River Canyon, the Etosha National Park and Skeleton Coast National Park as well as the variety of landscapes in the Namib Desert.

Credit – taken with permission from the original article by Fleur Hupston (Suite 101)

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From Mwene Ditu to Mbuji-Mayi – part one

Every time he hooted the horn he ducked beneath the dashboard, while we swerved dangerously across the road! “What IS he doing?” I asked Simon, who was sitting next to me in the back of the jeep. Simon craned his neck to see past the mechanic sitting in the front passenger seat.

It had been an interesting trip from Johannesburg to Mwene Ditu in the DRC (or Zaire as it was at the time). And now we were on our way to the missionary home in Mbuji-Mayi, along the only stretch of tar road in the interior of Zaire.


We had arrived by train from Kamina, a 13 hour trip that should have taken about 4 hours.
The local banker met us on the station platform. Not only was the banker standing on the platform, but so was his jeep! It wouldn’t have been so bad if he knew how to drive! The back of the jeep bumped the side of the train as the banker let go the clutch as if it were just about to bite him. Grating the gears we lunged forward toward a tin kiosk – the shop owner dived for cover. The soldiers at the gate leading out of the station area saluted nervously as we lurched and spluttered out on to the road. “Je m’appel Jean” said the banker turning to look at us hanging on for dear life in the back seat. We both nodded enthusiastically not knowing what he had just said, just praying he would just look at the road ahead!

Jeep in the jungle

Jeep in the jungle

Jean took us to a little hotel next to the station. Gesturing wildly, he made us understand that we were to spend the night there and that he would come for us later. It was 4am and we wondered what the point was, and since we had no money, we would have rather have been on our way. But there was no way out, Jean just didn’t understand what we were trying to say.
The little hotel room was simple to say the least, one bed, a bucket of cold water and a French style toilet. We tossed a coin to see who was going to “sleep” on the bed. Soon we were both on the floor since the bed was infested with all manner of creatures, living and dead…

The next morning, three hours later, Jean came past to pick us up. We heard the jeep coming down the road, Jean had forgotten to take the jeep out of first gear and the engine was screaming like a banshee at the early morning traders setting up their stalls. Jean gestured to his mouth and we understood we were going to eat something – “Oh, please God, let it be edible!”


Egg on toast! Phew! But how were we gong to pay, our travelers cheques were useless – our host, the banker, had no clue what they were. We ate anyway, hoping the eggs were chicken eggs. Jean pulled a wad of Zaire notes our of his pocket, peeled off a few hundred thousand, letting us know with a wave of is hand that he was paying.

Soon were we back in the jeep, our knuckles hanging onto the sides, white with tension and rucksacks in the back. Jean had another passenger today – a skinny bug eyed man with buck teeth who sat in the front clutching a vise grip and a screw driver. “Mechanic” grinned Jean, seeing our puzzled stare.

And we were off! It dawned on us that the jeep was the only vehicle we had seen in town. “Jean must have run the others off the road” we mused as the jeep lurched into fourth from second and straight back to first.

End of part one …

Pic of jeep by Matoso http://www.sxc.hu/photo/439745

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